Learn about the history, techniques and traditions associated with our styles of Indian bedspreads.
1. Applique
2. Hand Block Printing
3. Mirror Work
4. Batik
5. Jamawar
1. APPLIQUE
The definition of appliqué is: A decoration or ornament made by cutting pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of another.
Whilst not exclusive to the area, it is in Orissa, and particularly in the ancient villages of Pipli and Puri, that the art of appliqué is at its strongest and most wide spread. It was in Orissa that the local nobility and kings patronised the appliqué craftsmen, and established the village of Pipli to accommodate them as they worked on the adornments for the temples of the Hindu god Lord Jaganath. They would make canopies, banners, umbrellas and trashas (fans) for festivals held in Puri's famous temple. Traditionally the colour palette was limited to green, red, blue, ochre and black for ceremonial work, and the motifs were varied but stylized representations of flora and fauna.
In more modern times the craftsmen have varied their colour pallet and motifs, particularly for the use of utility pieces such as bedspreads, clothing, and bags.
How is it made?
The craftsman firstly prepares the base cloth, which in most instances is of a plain colour. The chosen motifs, be they animals, birds, flowers, etc. are then cut from other coloured cloths and are then stitched on top of the base layer, the edges being folded in if necessary, into a specifically arranged pattern. There are several different styles of stitching used for appliqué work, and nowadays other adornments such as tiny mirrors may be included.
What about our pieces?
You can see our ivory coloured appliqué bedspreads in our Luxury section. Due to the standard fabric lengths of cotton used these pieces have a top layer seam that runs vertically down the bedspread, but the matching of the patterns are so well placed that it is hard to notice. The geometric patterns that you see have all been stitched to the cotton backing by hand, and when you consider the amount of cut work involved you can appreciate that it is a highly time consuming art form.
To see something more traditional in colours, we have a faux appliqué work in our Indian Slumbers range, called Animals in the Round, which could be used as a wonderful sofa throw. It is bright and busy, the animals are printed on the same material, rather than stitched on separately, but then the sewer has hand stitched a running stitch around each and every motif.
Our Applique bedspreads are created by a women's NGO called Udyogini.
2. HAND BLOCK PRINTING
India has been renowned for its printing of cloth since the 12th century. The earliest records are from southern India but it seems the techniques spread far and wide and are now to be found throughout all of India.
Generally speaking the more delicate block prints are to be found north, and the bolder styles to the south
How is it made?
The printer’s main tools are the carved wooden blocks, called bunta. The blocks are generally made out of seasoned teak. The underside has been carved into a relief pattern with great dexterity; and the resulting patterns are often very intricate and delicate. Each block has a wooden handle and several holes that have been drilled into the block to allow for the passage of air and the movement of any excess printing pastes.
The fabric to be printed is then stretched over a table and pinned down. The block is dipped into a tray of colour and then pressed down hard onto the material to ensure a good clear print. There is a point on the block that aids the placement of the next pattern so that the accuracy of the repeat pattern is maintained. If this is a multiple design a second printer will follow along and a pattern builds as the colours and styles are joined together.
Block printed fabric is used not only for bedspreads and table cloths but for clothing, particularly cotton saris.
What about our pieces?
You can see wonderful examples of block printing throughout our Exclusive Collection of light cotton bedspreads.
Meet the Choudhary's who have made our Exclusive Collection of hand block printed Indian bedspreads.
3. MIRROR WORK - SHEESHEDAR
The art of mirror work embroidery, or sheeshedar, has been established in India for centuries, but it is thought that the influence is originally Persian from around the 13th century, but other than that not much is known about its history. What is known is that it can be amazingly beautiful!
Tiny mirror discs are sewn by hand onto fabric bases, be it on bedspreads or clothing, and it has a fabulous effect.
What about our pieces?
If you want to see a stunning example of mirror work check out the ‘Jaipur’ selection in our Luxury category, particularly the Ivory, absolutely amazing. On a very quick calculation each bedspread holds close to a thousand mirrors!
You’ll see plenty of other pieces on our site too, less elaborate but still special, and these are in our Indian Slumbers range.
4. BATIK
The translation for the word Batik is ‘wax writing’ as wax is the resist used to create the pattern on the cloth. In days of yore lades of the Indian aristocracy would paint using this method, and their delicate touch was a sign of their status and refinement.
Whilst batik can be found in many countries such as Nigeria and Indonesia, it can be traced as far back as 2000 years in India where rice starch and wax were used in the process for printing on fabric.
How is it made?
There are 3 main stages to Batik, the waxing of the cloth, the colouring of the cloth, and then the de-waxing, though there are several sub stages involved along the way, such as tracing the pattern, preparing the wax and stretching the cloth. The main characteristics of Batik are the fine lines that form where the wax resist cracks and allows tiny amounts of colour to seep through to the cloth. In order to achieve this attribute the cloth must be crumpled in a specific way to allow the wax to crack just to the right amount. This requires a lot of training!
Hand made batik is in such demand that there is a semi-handmade alternative, where the practitioner uses a technique called tjaping. A tjap is a metal block made of copper strips in a required design, this is stamped onto the cloth quickly and with force to reveal a batik style of pattern, such as our Intensely Pink bedspread in the Batiks section. The other batiks we have are most likely from the original manufacturing processes of batik fashion.
Take a look at our Batik bedspreads.
4. JAMAWAR
The word Jamawar comes for 'Jama' meaning robe, and 'war' meaning length. Traditionally from the Himachal Pradesh and Kashmir regions of northern India, the patterns reflect the beauty of the region and the weaving techniques have been handed down over the years. Woven in the softest wool they are truly beautiful, soft and light.
How is it made?
With the use of handlooms Jamawar weaving is intricate and time consuming. Numerous 'kanis' or shuttles carrying different coloured fine woollen threads are moved around in each weft line to create the amazingly intricate patterns. There can be up to as many as 30 colours in one piece.
Jamawar weaving is based on a pattern drawing which is transferred to a graph by a high level craftsman. The colouring is done by the colour caller with a black and white drawing before him, beginning at the bottom and working upwards, calling out each colour to the weavers, and also the number of warps along which it is required until the pattern is covered.
These patterns are then turned into a coded design that the weavers can decipher and they guide others by calling out aloud the number of warp ends to be covered in a particular coloured weft. A second weaver sits on the loom to accelerate the process and the chief weaver recites the weft repeat for him to follow.
What about our pieces?
We have a selection of beautiful handloom Jamawar stoles for you to see. Many of these are reversible with the double weft technique allowing the same pattern on each side but in differing colours. We also have some truly incredible bedspreads made in the same way - luxury items that are real treasures.
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